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This page tells you how to make a Hulda Clark-style "Parasite Zapper". This is a
simpler and more efficient version that works just like the original, but the battery
lasts much longer. We make no
therapeutic claims for this device. It is for experimental purposes only.
We also provide a ready made version for those
not so inclined or who simply
prefer not to spend so much time building their own.
Parts and Materials
- A CD4069 hex inverter
NOTE: The exact values of most components may be substituted
according to what you have on hand. The 220k resistor and the 100pf capacitor
determine the frequency of the Zapper, which may be allowed to vary pretty widely
according to Dr. Clark. The 1M should be kept relatively large compared to the 220K
to provide a reasonably symmetric waveform. The 1k should be kept within
10 or 20 percent of value to provide reasonable current limiting. (If you know what you are doing and
want to try different output currents, you can adjust this accordingly.)
* Sorry, Radio Shack appears to have changed their linking structure and their links don't seem to be working correctly. If you search around their site a bit you should be able to locate the necessary components. I'll try to post some alternate links when I get a chance.
Plug the components into the solderless breadboard according to the schematic. Make sure none of the wires touch each other. Connect pin 14 of the chip to the positive terminal on the battery and pin 7 to the negative terminal, using clip leads or other suitable connectors. The two hand-holds are attached with another two clip leads. (One goes to ground on pin 7, the other to the loose end of the 1k resistor.)
*Note: we have improved marginally on the design by replacing the 100k resistor in the schematic with a 220k resitor and the 1000pf capacitor with a 100pf capacitor (see parts list above). The 220k resistor in combination with the 100pf capacitor produce a nominal frequency virtually identical to Dr. Hulda's original Zapper schematic. Dr. Hulda says in her book that frequency is not important, but we thought you might appreciate this anyway.
The above instructions are clearly not the only way you can do it. You can, for example, solder all the components directly onto a 14-pin socket or onto a piece of electronic perf board, like we do in our ready made version. This is a lot more time-consuming and difficult for most people, which is why we recommend a breadboard. As mentioned above, the resistors and capacitor don't all have to be the exact values mentioned here to make a working Zapper. However, any variation in capacitance or resistance will affect the output frequency. (There are limits on frequency and power consumption that the chip can handle, so don't stray too far from the specified values.)
If you have access to an oscilloscope you can use it to check your Zapper output when you are finished.
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